Song Away Farm Rabbit Adoption Contract
All of our rabbits are guaranteed to be healthy to the best of our knowledge at the time of sale. The buyer should carefully inspect each rabbit at the time of delivery to ensure it meets their expectations. This should include careful inspection of the whole rabbit and most importantly to verify the sex.
We will offer a 3 day health return guarantee on our rabbits provided the rabbit has been examined by a licensed veterinarian and it is determined ill. If it is determined that the rabbit is ill, the buyer will need to provide us with a signed copy of the veterinary findings within 4 days of purchase. Song Away Farm is not responsible for paying any cost incurred with the care of your purchased rabbit once it leaves our property, including vet bills. We will not guarantee on injuries or illness due to neglect, unsanitary housing or poor nutrition once out of our care.
We cannot make any guarantees about the success buyers will have with their breeding programs as there are many factors involved in successfully mating rabbits. We can sell “Proven” bucks and does which will increase the possibility of successful breeding, but the buyer is ultimately responsible for managing breeding. "Proven" simply means that the buck or doe offered for sale has successfully produced offspring.
Any pure breed rabbit originating from Song Away Farm Rabbitry (ARBA # D565) must retain our rabbitry name as a part of the rabbit’s name/pedigree, permanently. We cannot verify the ancestry of a rabbit that has not been born at Song Away Farm and can only duplicate the ancestry provided to us at the time of our original purchase. If pedigreed stock is purchased we will provide you with ONE signed copy of the rabbits sire & dame (a one generation pedigree) at the time of sale. (For folks that have purchased from us in the past if you need an additional copies of the pedigrees the fee will be $15 for each copy and it will be emailed to you once the check has cleared the bank).
If at any time the buyer is not able to care for their purchased rabbit or give it the attention that it needs, the rabbit may be returned to us. We only ask that you provide us with an updated health history and will respect the fact that you are putting the rabbit’s interest ahead of your own. The buyer’s money will not be refunded for any such return.
We will offer a 3 day health return guarantee on our rabbits provided the rabbit has been examined by a licensed veterinarian and it is determined ill. If it is determined that the rabbit is ill, the buyer will need to provide us with a signed copy of the veterinary findings within 4 days of purchase. Song Away Farm is not responsible for paying any cost incurred with the care of your purchased rabbit once it leaves our property, including vet bills. We will not guarantee on injuries or illness due to neglect, unsanitary housing or poor nutrition once out of our care.
We cannot make any guarantees about the success buyers will have with their breeding programs as there are many factors involved in successfully mating rabbits. We can sell “Proven” bucks and does which will increase the possibility of successful breeding, but the buyer is ultimately responsible for managing breeding. "Proven" simply means that the buck or doe offered for sale has successfully produced offspring.
Any pure breed rabbit originating from Song Away Farm Rabbitry (ARBA # D565) must retain our rabbitry name as a part of the rabbit’s name/pedigree, permanently. We cannot verify the ancestry of a rabbit that has not been born at Song Away Farm and can only duplicate the ancestry provided to us at the time of our original purchase. If pedigreed stock is purchased we will provide you with ONE signed copy of the rabbits sire & dame (a one generation pedigree) at the time of sale. (For folks that have purchased from us in the past if you need an additional copies of the pedigrees the fee will be $15 for each copy and it will be emailed to you once the check has cleared the bank).
If at any time the buyer is not able to care for their purchased rabbit or give it the attention that it needs, the rabbit may be returned to us. We only ask that you provide us with an updated health history and will respect the fact that you are putting the rabbit’s interest ahead of your own. The buyer’s money will not be refunded for any such return.
Helpful Hints
Even though it is a small animal, there's a lot of information you need to know about your new rabbit. We strongly recommend reading Rabbit Production, 9th Edition, Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits, and Rabbit Raising Problem Solver. We are constantly reading publications and will update the recommended reading list.
FEEDING: Try to feed your rabbit on the same schedule every day. We feed our adult rabbits every morning and the younger rabbits every morning and evening. Be sure to feed your rabbit the right amount of feed for its breed and age. The big breeds should receive no more then two six-ounce scoops per feeding. Any more and it will grow too fat (and a fat rabbit is an unhealthy rabbit). When the rabbit is six months old, you eliminate the second feeding and you must weigh the rabbit and enter this weight on its Pedigree papers (this is its adult weight). If you plan to use a feed other than what we use it is important that you transition to it gradually. We will be sending you home with some of the feed your rabbit is presently on. Use a mixture of three- quarters of old feed plus one- quarter new feed for a couple days, then half old feed plus half new feed for a couple days, three- quarters new feed plus one- quarter old feed for a couple days and finally in about a week and a half they’ll be on the new feed entirely. Roughage, such as hay, should also be given during the switchover. If you want to keep the rabbit on the same feed we will include a copy of the feed bag tag so you may purchase that brand.
TREATS: Once treats are introduced they should be in very small amounts. Hay can be given at all times. Lettuce, cabbage, and grass can give your rabbit diarrhea, a condition that can be very dangerous (even fatal). Diarrhea is most frequently caused by a sudden change in feed, too many treats or the stress of a new home.
WATER: Be sure your rabbit always has fresh water and keep the dishes clean and free of algae.
CAGES: They should be made with half-inch by one inch square mesh for the floor and one-inch by two inch mesh on the other five sides. An outside cage would need insulation, which is easily accomplished by covering the top and back with a tarp (in winter you should also provide additional cover on all sides to prevent drafts). Add enough hay so the rabbit can make a cozy nest to sleep in. Put the cage on legs so that it is raised at least four feet above the ground to help fend off predators and position it out of direct sunlight.
TEMPERATURE: Rabbits prefers cooler weather so take caution on hot summer days and provide them with cold water and iced water bottles. A ceramic tile can also be used as a cool resting board in the summer (see below).
RESTING BOARDS: Give your rabbit something to lay/sit on to prevent a debilitating condition called sore hocks. We like to purchase ours online but a plain, untreated pine board about twelve inches by eighteen inches will do fine.
GNAWING: A rabbit's teeth continually grow so they will need something to chew on . If you are using a pine resting board they may use that, but you can also give them a piece of small diameter hardwood (2” x 2”) and replace as needed.
HOLDING: Do not let the rabbit dangle. To properly hold a rabbit, you must cradle it from beneath with your arm in a horizontal position with its head tucked in the crook of your arm. In this position you should be able to carry it in one arm, leaving the other arm free.
FEEDING: Try to feed your rabbit on the same schedule every day. We feed our adult rabbits every morning and the younger rabbits every morning and evening. Be sure to feed your rabbit the right amount of feed for its breed and age. The big breeds should receive no more then two six-ounce scoops per feeding. Any more and it will grow too fat (and a fat rabbit is an unhealthy rabbit). When the rabbit is six months old, you eliminate the second feeding and you must weigh the rabbit and enter this weight on its Pedigree papers (this is its adult weight). If you plan to use a feed other than what we use it is important that you transition to it gradually. We will be sending you home with some of the feed your rabbit is presently on. Use a mixture of three- quarters of old feed plus one- quarter new feed for a couple days, then half old feed plus half new feed for a couple days, three- quarters new feed plus one- quarter old feed for a couple days and finally in about a week and a half they’ll be on the new feed entirely. Roughage, such as hay, should also be given during the switchover. If you want to keep the rabbit on the same feed we will include a copy of the feed bag tag so you may purchase that brand.
TREATS: Once treats are introduced they should be in very small amounts. Hay can be given at all times. Lettuce, cabbage, and grass can give your rabbit diarrhea, a condition that can be very dangerous (even fatal). Diarrhea is most frequently caused by a sudden change in feed, too many treats or the stress of a new home.
WATER: Be sure your rabbit always has fresh water and keep the dishes clean and free of algae.
CAGES: They should be made with half-inch by one inch square mesh for the floor and one-inch by two inch mesh on the other five sides. An outside cage would need insulation, which is easily accomplished by covering the top and back with a tarp (in winter you should also provide additional cover on all sides to prevent drafts). Add enough hay so the rabbit can make a cozy nest to sleep in. Put the cage on legs so that it is raised at least four feet above the ground to help fend off predators and position it out of direct sunlight.
TEMPERATURE: Rabbits prefers cooler weather so take caution on hot summer days and provide them with cold water and iced water bottles. A ceramic tile can also be used as a cool resting board in the summer (see below).
RESTING BOARDS: Give your rabbit something to lay/sit on to prevent a debilitating condition called sore hocks. We like to purchase ours online but a plain, untreated pine board about twelve inches by eighteen inches will do fine.
GNAWING: A rabbit's teeth continually grow so they will need something to chew on . If you are using a pine resting board they may use that, but you can also give them a piece of small diameter hardwood (2” x 2”) and replace as needed.
HOLDING: Do not let the rabbit dangle. To properly hold a rabbit, you must cradle it from beneath with your arm in a horizontal position with its head tucked in the crook of your arm. In this position you should be able to carry it in one arm, leaving the other arm free.